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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.